Woke up in Workington this morning to the sound of the bloke next door having a shower. It wasn’t the poshest hotel I’ve ever stayed in, but it did a job, I suppose. It had been a late night as I got chatting to a couple of Hull KR fans, an Oldham fan who lives in Edinburgh and an Aussie journalist who had been covering the Scotland v Tonga match.
All four of them were sat up in the hotel bar, when I returned from the Weatherspoons in Workington town centre where, being a Wakey fan, I’d felt obliged to sample a pint of Wildcat. And very enjoyable it was too. As it had been dark when I arrived in Workington, I hadn’t seen much of the town before the game, and I didn’t see much after, although I can confirm that it has a splendid bus station. Apparently, it was the first purpose built, covered bus station in Britain. Built in 1926. So now ya know.
Back in the hotel bar, we talked all things rugby league, and it was only the thought of my long day today that forced me to turn it in, in the early hours. Morning came far too soon and having waited for matey boy next door to finish his shower, I hopped in mine, hoping he hadn’t stolen all the hot water. My luck was in.
The breakfast room was a curious mix of builders working away from home and rugby league fans, high on the World Cup. One such chap I recognised as Phil Cole, Chairman of the Bristol Sonics rugby league club. I’d seen his photo in one of the papers at some stage, and the fact he was wearing a Bristol Sonics fleece, were all the clues this Sherlock Holmes needed. He was, as I suspected, travelling later down to Bristol.
Having been a main player in establishing the Sonics in the first place in Bristol in 2002, I thought it would be odd if he wasn’t there to see a World Cup match played in that very city, 11 years later. As Phil returned his attention to his bacon and eggs, I headed across the road to the train station.
Leg 1 of my journey today, was to head north to Carlisle for my inter city connection down south. Whilst Workington’s station hints at a busier past, Carlisle’s is still the business. The buffet bar is a very impressive building, I imagine the new one they are building at Wakefield Westgate will be equally as inspiring. Not! As my youngest would say.
Whilst enjoying my morning coffee and catching up on the reports of last night’s match, a bloke in a Leeds Rhinos jacket walked in. Chuff me, they get everywhere that lot. As it happens this one, was in from Sydney. On a World Cup tour with his Kiwi wife. He’d emigrated 13 years ago and had forgotten “how cold it is over here this time of year”. Cold? I was surprised how mild it was. With my ensuing travels, space was a bit of a premium, and I did wonder if I would regret not packing my gloves and thick England jacket, but not a bit of it. Back in Wakefield, they’d all be out in t-shirts up Westgate tonight if these temperatures keep so high.
He and his wife were off to Bristol too, no doubt hoping for a bit of warmth, being that bit nearer the equator. They weren’t off to Avignon though. Scheduling was a bit tricky, and I can certainly confirm that, but the main reason was that Mrs Kiwi, wasn’t keen on flying. Eh? They’d just flown half way round the world to get here. I’m surprised they even consider nipping across the channel flying. This was my big trip, but it must have seemed like nipping down the road for a paper in comparison to their travels.
Virgin trains did us proud, arriving promptly for Leg 2, ready to whisk us away to the promising land of Birmingham. Sometimes I forget that I’m living the dream. Anyway the journey took me through some great places. Lancaster, a place I associate with the Morecambe Bay Origin game, where a team from one side of the bay played a team from the other back in 2004. I’ve no idea if it became an annual event, but it sounded like a great idea at the time.
Then there was Preston, where the Ireland team will be based at the town’s university. My next door neighbour was telling me that his lad who started there in September will be doing some stuff with the Irish squad, studying their nutrition or fitness regimes. Another great example of how the World Cup is connecting with people.
Warrington and Wigan were also on the route. A couple of places every league fan is familiar with, and future destinations for my World Cup travels. Whilst Carlisle station adds a touch of class to the weary traveller’s arrival in town, Warrington Bank Quay less so.
Leg 3 of my journey was a straightforward run from Birmingham New Street to Bristol Temple Meads. The heating in my carriage was on full, and the sun was streaming through the windows. It was hot and I’m sure I even saw the couple from Sydney unbutton their coats.
Never been to Bristol before, apart from a car trip straight to Ashton Gate and back again for a soccer match in the early 1990s. All I remember is that we lost, and whilst we stood on a terrace, the other three stands had lots of shiny, red seats. That’s all I knew of Bristol. However I’ve now discovered that it is a fine city, with a mix of impressive old buildings and new architecture around the waterfront. A bit like Leeds, or Manchester, but with posh Victorian buildings for the old, rather than the refurbished warehouses we have in the North.
Leg 4 of my journey was the most leisurely. I had just under five hours between arriving in Bristol and kick-off, so plenty of time to plot my route, enjoy a beer and grab a bit of tea. The fact it took me several hours to work out where to get my bus to the ground, is probably more a reflection on my navigational skills, than on Bristol’s public transport system.
I noticed plenty of signage up around the town, promoting the game, and Radio Bristol had interviews with the coaches as part of their build up. I knew the Bristol World Cup team had been working overtime to promote their fixture, which looked like the hardest sell of all. USA against the Cook Islands in Bristol was always going to need more effort to draw a crowd than say Papua New Guinea against France in Hull.
I made my way to the bus stop and met another lad wearing a Rhinos shirt. I told you. Chuffin everywhere. This one was a native of Southampton. Grandparents live in Leeds, so he was dragged along to Headingley on a Sunday afternoon as a child, whenever his mother took a trip up north to visit her parents. We spotted a Cook Island flag at the back of the bus, and headed there. These blokes would know where we were headed. Despite their West Country accents, they were telling everyone they were natives of the Cook Islands and were proudly quizzing fellow passengers about their flag, which they themselves had never seen before, until they bought it in the city centre earlier in the day.
They dived off the bus a bit earlier than we wanted to, headed for the Welly for a few beers first. We were keen to get to the ground, and a charming young lady pointed out our stop, walked us to the ground, and directed us to the bar. A few minutes later we made our way inside, and ordered a couple of beers only to be greeted by the same lass, miraculously transformed from tour guide to barmaid.
They clearly had the same heating system in the bar as they had on my train to Bristol. As the rain came down outside, the windows steamed up on the inside, and coats were dispensed with. It was clear that this wasn’t going to be your usual crowd. There weren’t that many league shirts on show. Most people were local, and either rugby union or soccer fans. Whilst there were plenty of newbies, there were also some hard core league fans, and sure enough Phil from breakfast in Workington had now popped up in the bar in Bristol.
Fresh from an interview with the local radio, he was clearly nervous about how the evening would go. Would there be a decent crowd? There was talk of 5,000, but Phil wasn’t counting chickens. What about the game itself? We were surely due a blow out score in the World Cup. Would it come tonight? The bookies had the Tomahawks as 5/1 outsiders.
As it happened, by the time we had taken our place on the eastern terrace, next to the Cook Islands’ band the ground had filled up quite nicely.
As we have come to expect in the World Cup, the players on field performances matched the excellent off-field efforts of the organising teams. It was compelling stuff, as we headed in to the last ten minutes at 20-20. It was eventually the Americans who won the game, with try of the tournament (so far) from Craig Priestly, as he flew through the air to catch a huge bomb and touch down in one move.
Phil was relieved. It had been another gripping game and when the attendance was given as 7247, his smile really lit up. That crowd exceeded even the most optimistic of predictions. Wow. This tournament is really capturing people’s imagination.
I made my exit as the final hooter sounded. I’d not got long for Leg 5 of my journey. The Memorial Ground to Temple Meads train station. The train to Paddington left at 10:35. I’m sure it was 10:45 when I booked it! It was going to be tight. I caught the bus on Gloucester Road without trouble, but it was taking ages to load. Come on. I’m up against the clock here. I’d only got 42 minutes from the final hooter, to the train whistle.
We eventually edged our way toward the city centre, seemingly stopping at every stop to let a single passenger disembark. The bus was full of chatter about the game. The locals seemed to have enjoyed the fare on offer, even if the talk from one local of Wales “going all the way” sounded a touch optimistic. When I needed to ask the advice of a local about the best bus stop to exit for the train station, I though I’d steer clear of that fellow. Although when I did ask another chap, he pointed out where I needed to be. When you get off, go left and follow the road round. It’s about a 20 minute walk.
Twenty minutes! I’d got about ten. This is where preparation comes in. I’d done a bit at altitude in the lead up to the World Cup. Mrs Davies had insisted I tidy the loft before I set off on my travels. It was paying dividends now, as I pushed through the pain barrier, huffed and puffed my way to the train station and dropped to my knees on the platform with a minute to spare. Naturally the train was five minutes late, and already on the platform were several others from the match, with more strolling up after me. None of them looked out of breath!
Oh well, I was there now, and ready for Leg 6. The train to Paddington. That went surprisingly smoothly, and I even managed to grab a quick nap en route. Leg 7 was the night bus across the capital to St Pancras where I currently sit with the living dead in Costa waiting for the Eurostar terminal to open in a few hours.
Then it’ll be the 5.40 train to Paris and onwards to Avignon. Now where did I put that passport. I’m sure it’s in this bag somewhere.